These can be replaced with hardened stronger units that causes the transmission to work better. The seal could be torn or the pin worn. I was thinking something along the lines of an accumulator that gets stuck when its cold and then unstuck when it heats up. Remove the 1-2 accumulator next to the valve body. If I had a code wouldn't the Service Engine light come on or does that only happen if the code is frequent? You should really ask masterm88. Stays in drive, wont shift into overdrive or back. I usually find them in the process of doing a shift kit, where you're removing them, replacing them, or re-stacking them for a stiffer shift anyway, so I don't remember if the valve body has to come out to access them or not, , but a hard 1-2 shift would not concern me too much anyway, you probably wouldn't like the 1-2 shift in my truck, it can break the tires loose, When I had the valve body in my '96 fixed, the trans guy found a broken spring on the accumulator, there was a small one inside a bigger one.
That can be multiple things. Thanx chuck 3-8-11 Starts out in 2 nd shifts to 3 rd no 1 or4 rebuilt trany all new shift solenolds went to tranny shop got a remote shifting box shift great take box off plug tranny back in works for a little does it again. It seems to be smooth when I just start the truck and the transmission is cold but it is more noticeable when the truck is warm. Be cafeful and do not pry pan. Transgo has some good videos on their site, they mainly address installing their shift kit, but may be helpful. Please advise what to do thank you! I am not going to rebuild the tranny for something i could fix by dropping the pan, even with this many miles. If you are not comfortable with these steps, you'll need to consider a plan B.
The wear allows pressure to leak that applies the torque converter allowing the clutch in it to slip. Some of the issues to watch for are: 1. It threw a code once every blue moon, 1860 or 1870. I towed a 4000lbs boat 2000km yes 2000 and never had a hard shift. It seems as if the faster I accelerate, the less smooth the shift is. That's get you by till you figure out what you want to do.
I appreciate all the great points brought up, and I agree if I were planning on keeping this trans a full rebuild would be the way to go. In that case, I'd back it out of my parking spot, shift to drive and wait for everything else to make the shift, too. Not common enough that it happens to everybody, but still I'm surprised more people haven't heard of it, particularly the trans gurus Quite frankly I am aware of excessively worn valve bores in transmissions. Check the internal wiring harness for any breaks in the wires or insulation. We see you haven't yet.
And if I start off fast it doesn't want to change to second. I was told it may be something in the ignition switch. What was the chain of events i. They go out and it doesn't matter if you have 35k or 120k. You do not have to drop the transmisson to have the valvebody fix completed - a knowledgeable shop can likely do it, but ask them before dropping it off if you are not doing it yourself. Fluid was close to being black and Filter looked bad also. My Trailblazer wasn't exhibiting the same issue yet when I got it at 112k, but I installed is as a preemptive move.
I have my trucks and my wife's Impala Ss set u p to do just that. If you do see metal fragments on the dipstick that tranny is a basket case and needs some intensive care and work. Thats all the service i know of for the tranny, as far as i know, everything else is original. A stock tranny would work, but you guys were talking about these kits. Usually, 60K mile intervals are recommended. About an hour later I hopped in the truck, pulled out of the driveway and experienced a very hard shift from 1st to 2nd. I've learned a lot in the last year too.
I once bought an accord that lost 2nd and 3rd due to its computer, shifted great after i hit the junk yard. Those things are not built for longevity, You need to get into a tranny shop and have the guy get you the heavy duty parts in at least the clutches, governor, and valve body parts seperator plates and Sonex valves. Your Name: Your Email: Message: Type Code in box: Code is case-sensitive. With the , there are millions of them still in use. Great video, my 96 sierra 4x4 when shifting into high gear motor races as if nothing is there. I'm having a hard time finding the part, and provided I locate it, having pictures would be very helpful to a visually-oriented driveway mechanic like me.
I prefer a neck snapping shift in the 1 to 2 gears, I want that gear to engage and hold, which means there would less wear on the bands, due to sloppy shifting. Either way, it's getting fixed. Only after the fluid was good and hot, my 1-2 shifts were teeth chattering. If the code goes away on it's own, the trans should shift normally. Tom hey, want to dig this one back to the top. Like, the whole truck would jolt. I was always intimidated by an automatic tranny for fear that something would go horribly wrong.
Fluid is clean and not burnt. If it is too high or too low it can throw off the shift points. Remove the transmission cover plate, under the vehicle, that will expose the flywheel, you should be able to see the bolts form there, to remove get a ratchet with a long handle and the correct socket, you will have to pin the flywheel with a large flat blade screwdriver to keep it from turning on y … ou while you loosen the bolts, reassemble in reverse order. My experience with filters that are getting past their prime was limited to my '64 Bonneville, about 40 years ago. I bought my 03 Silverado used 90,000 miles and it shifts perfectly except the 1-2 upshift is sometimes hard. Any help appreciated-maybe the Servo seals? After the valve body is repaired, you can test the condition of the converter by watching tcc slip on a scanner. That is why I recommended buying a rebuilt valve body on ebay.