Today, I pulled the valve body down to take a look. You need to find out why it was not getting tight, maybe a broken band? After removing this there is a rod attached to the valve body that stops the car from moving when its in park. Then back locknut off 3-5 turns. Is this how bad the industry has gotten? Unhook wire before removing and re-hook after replacing. They Tell Me They Only Have The Output Sensor, Not The Input. It didn't seem like it went very well as far as following the crappy Haynes manual, seemed like it needed to be turned quite a bit to get the proper torque reading, but it seems like it hooks up a lot better on the street now. I could not reach torque spec, it felt like it would start to tension, and then slip away.
I diddouble up the coolers, electric fan, and a double dish pan on it. Like if I take my sled and put it on the trailer with a buddy's sled. I am going to cut down the back of the visor, see how it works inside, maybe come up with a repair and probably ruin it and have to cough up the 55. If you are towing, your tranny is gonna get hot. That dried it out pretty good and the condensation is virtually gone.
Then re-ran the line to go in one cooler then into the other. There is a way to do this. I live 30mins away from work. From looking at the price of kits and parts, it seems to me that most of the cost is labor. It started messing up again so i had to readjust it. I've had a friend that kept the car for 7 days and every evening that he drove the car it don't act up. I think if they can not do anything with it I'll do the adjustment myself.
Just some food for though. Do you have a transmission temp guage? There is acres of room under the bed to do it. First remove the door panel. When I am driving along it seems like the transmission is slipping in first or second gear. Be sure the locknut is backed off enough that it doesn't bottom out when the adjustment screw is tightened.
I think a lot of the folks with Durango transmission troubles are getting ripped off for new and re-built Durango trasmissions. You will need to gerk the valve body to get this to pop out. Transman Well, I parked the truck after reading transman's last post. Your truck is pulling at least 2,000ib's. This runs back into the tranny.
About thirty min later i have to go to wall mart. I don't know how thick the liner on a new front band typically is. Loosen band adjusting screw locknut. In second gear it will do this about three times before its time to shift. Had to speed up and slow down a few times to get it to shift.
You need to remove the door panels. Be sure adjusting screw turns freely in case. I've been talking to some local tranny repair shops, and from what they tell me, I might as well put a rebuild kit in if I need to repair the front band. This is a demonstration of how I tightened the bands of my automatic transmission and changed the transmission fluid and filter. Check the assembly, check by the gas pedal.
First thing that would go out was the reverse, and it was because the converter went out. Standing near the tail pipe does it make your eyes want to water? You should have no problem if you drive smoothly; you don't have extreme weight nor distance, unless you Trout fish way back in the mountains like Chuck Yeager. We took it back to Aamco and they tested it and it showed nothing was wrong. When a 12 volt charge is passed through the coil winding found inside the solenoid, it generates a magnetic field and cause the plunger to move the valve. Reading the manual I seen that they had band adjustment thinking this would help or try tweaking the rod again. A properly working solenoid should return a reading of between 20 — 30 ohms.
Replace valve body if any valves or valve bores are worn or damaged. For example; Imaging you taking a bath and putting your dirty clothes back on. I think the throttle body being cleaned helped the sputtering some. I adjusted it and it fixed the problem. More than likely its one of the dozen of sensor's you have that help regulate fuel. You either have a broken band, dropped the strut, or no material left on the band. Any of these small problems can cause the transmission to suck in air sporadically, at which point it loses oil pressure and feels like it is in neutral.