The only difference is that it's just a solid chunk of metal instead of an assembly. You may notice some white parts like the fuel filter bracket, the turbo heat guard, the battery holddown, etc. See the dyno graph below. Because our sales staff specialize exclusively in Toyota parts we have built a national repution and loyal customer base that regularly contacts us for parts from around the country, from Seattle, to Miami. It turns out that the bolts don't line up.
My next trip I hope to have the boost issue corrected and should easily be over 400 hp. I got a exhaust manifold that was off a 1. Obviouly I was sure my head had just died. Notes: Fits models originally equipped with a L4 engine only. I have a stock rear end right now. The first two I turned it over and saw that all of my marks had moved. No lift, no big exhaust, no body damage, etc.
It works, but it's the only part of the truck that has given me any problem since I finished the swap. Thanks for the tip Rockwell, i thought i had the exhaust routing figured out, but this might be better. That couldn't be right, so I took it off and tried again. I also got the bellhousing on the tranny, and the new throwout bearing installed. Here is the 1Z hanging in place, you can see how much shorter it is than the original.
We also removed all sorts of little bits from the half cut body and installed them on my truck. I think the input shaft seal on my tranny might be leaking a bit. There was a fine black wire that traces back to the F connector on the engine harness and a black with a blue stripe that also goes to the F connector, this wire was slightly heavier. First there was the L, which got a little more displacement to become the 2L. Regarding clearances: My engine is also pretty tight against the firewall, like Rockwell's. With the old engine and stock turbo at 18 lbs of boost, I was able to run low 12s in the quarter.
It is an inline 6 cylinder with double overhead cams and 4 valves per cylinder. I basically just didn't want to have to open that up until I need to replace the belt again. I knew from the get go that the hard part of the swap would be the wiring. You give up some horsepower, but the 22r is one of the most reliable engines ever made and with correct gearing can make the truck get around better than the 3. That means that the wiring harness only went to the left firewall.
This was with cylinder no. The pics here are the two bellhousings side by side the clean one is the diesel bellhousing , the front of the gas tranny again notice the oil--it has been scrubbed down a bit at this point too , and the rear of the R150f T-case. It is a 15A circuit best i can tell. Plus, I like idea of staying Toyota. I also dealt with the pilot bearing I had to use the bread trick, grease and a puller both failed and rear main seal. Some of the mods to the engine include. Here you can see how close things really are.
Regarding mandatory sensors: G72 is necessary I'm not using J325, but I live in a relatively mild climate even when skiing Yes, all the sensors your previous post are necessary. I wanted to know just what was so bad int here, and if I would need to replace the flywheel. Back to the clutch question? Looks like your truck is in much better condition than the one I started with. Here's some pics of the engine compartment as I saw it when I opened the hood of the half-cut. Unfortunately i don't have any pictures yet but i can snap a few next time the engine is out. The rest of it comes to you in a big box.
And the first day was usually taken up trying to remember what on earth I was doing, and the last day was spent cleaning up for my absence. First, my half-cut was reportedly scrapped because the clutch had failed. I was able to sneak this in behind my grille, i will only have to modify one of the grille mounting brackets. The engines are cheep and readily available, but this sounds like a damn nightmare to hook up to his transfer case and drive line. February 2004 I finally made it to my local dyno for a few pulls.
I made the mistake of using a stock clutch to begin with. I had decided to not install the engine until the chassis harness was done, because it would be so much easier to trace wires with the engine on the engine stand if I had to. It was really nice because I was able to at least hear my engine run, and know that it wasn't just a solid hunk of steel. For one, I figured it would be a W56 yeah, should have looked at my door tag , and when I got the half-cut I found that it had an electrical T-case. I would put 3 qts into it every time I filled the gas tank. When i take the head off, i will have a good look at the cylinders and pistons and decide then. I finally started my swap last Sunday.