Do or have done a compression test. Your original problem with the fuel pump was probably the relay. According to your posting, you have fuel pressure and spark. We are just people donating our experience and we have no obligation to anyone. It's recommended you replace the glow plugs when they go bad, which usually is about a year, because the system only works when all of them function properly.
Switch on engine not running. If pressure is too low, you check the supply side of the fuel system. Crossed the river on the cable car and started the truck, and while it did start up with no issues it was making a strange sound. I'm afraid that doesn't tell us much of anything at all. The Neutral Switch seems to be working because I get the back up chimes when in Reverse from the Bumper Sensors. A buddy came over yesterday and helped me check some stuff out, plus I borrowed some tools from my Dad. Sometimes if a bad connection of the eyelet of cable is poor it might allow it to crank - might! After you have this air out it usually startes in one or two tries.
Put neg cable back on a battery last when all done. Studs at solenoid, starter with nuts could easily just snap off to even try to clean them up and might anyway. Vehicle is now dead and if a tool touches ground won't short out on you. I plug in the block heater when the vehicle is at home, but unfortunately when you have to go into town and drive to the ferry terminal to take the cable car across the river, there are no sockets there, so when you leave the house for any length of time the vehicle has to sit somewhere where it can't be plugged in. I only mention it in case it might be relevant.
You could try recording a video and uploading it to utube and at least figure out where the noise is originating from. I have had an issue since the last time I was at lake last year. If just fighting compression fine but not a dead stop. We don't have the truck to inspect. Here's how it all went down. It may be from the chip in the key, the I am in park switch, etc. If the problem is hydro-lock, you can take out the glow plugs and try to crank it, thereby pumping out the cylinders.
If that's the case, I apologize, and I'll take my inquiries elsewhere. An alternator that has seized and the belt still intact can hold the engine still for the starter not to crank it. Can not test hot as the engine will not start. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional. My sniffer is terribly insensitive so I didn't notice it, but she did, although this is the first time she mentioned it to me. Lucky for me, I'm a quick study and can usually figure things out pretty quick.
Once you get that straightened out and back the way it should work check the fuel pressure at the connector on the fuel rail. Step 4 — Check the glow plugs They could not be functioning. The red arrow is the connection to the battery. Electrics stay on when turning the ignition. Started once in this condition but ran rough and the check engine light was on. Now shorting battery positive direct to battery negative!!!! The Ford F250 diesel engine is equipped with two fuel filters, which are designed to filter all the fuel going into the engine, and separate any water out of the fuel.
I understand not having comprehensive basics on how things automotive work and many don't. Maybe the ground wire is shorted to ground or problem with computer? I was also reading more material on your site and found a page that mentioned that a blocked exhaust could cause this problem as well. If it is right then you will need to check for voltage going to your fuel injectors when your turning the motor over. I have a 2004 ford f350 diesel and some very perplexing problems: The ignition won't turn over the starter yet the lights shut off when engaged usually means the ignition switch is ok but also the starter works if I jump the hot to the ground. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional. I hadn't forgotten you, I had some computer problems for a while.
I plugged in the block heater and went inside. The diesel motor starter has a very tough job. Many times the engine control module is looking for several inputs to generate that 12v on the solenoid. On a non tilt wheel, you then have to remove the steering wheel and the turn signal switch to depress the release tab. Car won't turn over, lights won't come on, nothing. I have been troubleshooting it now for a couple of weeks and just can't seem to find anything wrong, and have now run out of ideas.